Monday, June 14, 2010

The Sidewinder Saga

Campsite Drama
Never again will we try to find a campsite in the Ozarks on Memorial Day weekend! Despite arriving at 3 p.m. on Friday, our original destination of Haw Creek Campground was packed. The much larger Long Pool Campground was full. The ranger said the only spaces left were in a horse and ATV campground called Moccasin Gap. Great, we're thinking, a testosterone camp, not up our alley. Actually, though, it wasn't bad at all. Except for the occasional entry or exit of ATVs, the campground was probably more quite and quaint than the others that were full of revelers.

More Than We Can Chew?
For our first adventure, we set our sights on a group of three waterfalls, Sidewinder Falls, Swamp Falls and V-Slot Falls, in a semi-remote valley along Bear Creek in the Ozark National Forest northwest of
Dover, AR. This time we would be going way off the beaten path and descending deep into a valley into the unknown with some vague directions and GPS coordinates. We knew it would be hard. Tim Ernst's book said it was "not for the faint of heart." We didn't know we would consider giving up multiple times.

The morning was already warming up and humid when we left our car along a one-lane gravel county road and trekked along a short jeep trail to a small swampy clearing in the forest. The gnats and mosquitoes were intense. We were supposed to find an opening on the far side, but found no such thing, so we went around outside of the clearing until we found the steep drainage leading down into the valley that was indicated as our "route".

Edna Falls, But She Doesn't Feel It
We whacked our way through the underbrush, fallen trees and spider webs, walking through a thick carpet of poison ivy when out of the drainage bottom and climbing our way across slippery boulders when the t
rench seemed the most passable. Early on, we discovered a small unmentioned waterfall, about nine feet high, which we named Edna Falls, after Melissa's mom. From there, the going became more and more difficult, dangerous and slow. We tried to find a route above the drainage bed a few times, but were stymied by the steep slopes and poison ivy on both sides. We also worried about having the stamina to make it back up this difficult terrain.

Hard Rock Gaffe
With our GPS indicating we were a mere .15 miles from our destination, we found ourselves at an impasse. Melissa slipped on a slick rock and fell hard on her hip, striking her hand as well. She stayed down for a while, and I imagined how I was going to carry her back up and out. But she recovered after about ten minutes and decided to continue. Check out the bruise (right).

Sidewinder Falls
At last, having discovered a route on the eastern slope of the drainage, we reached Bear Creek virtually on top of Sidewinder Falls, an fantastic cascade down a corkscrew rock formation to a pool about 15 feet below the top ledge. It was cool and comfortable, so we rested above the falls at the water's edge and ate lunch.

Swamp Falls
In theory, from Sidewinder Falls we should have had a clear view of Swamp Falls, a straight falls from the drainage we just came down, dropping perhaps 17 feet to the pool below. However, a large tree has fallen into the canyon above the tree. We could see Swamp Falls, but couldn't get a great picture through the foliage, and couldn't figure out how to climb down to the base for a better view.

V-Slot Falls - Not Meant To Be, This Time
What promised to be the most exciting of the three falls, V-Slot Falls, which apparently cuts vee shape into the bedrock that joins in a deep crevasse, was not far downstream. We got close enough to hear it. But alas, exhausted and unable to
see a way to safely reach it, we gave up and began the long haul back out of the valley. Turns out we had descended 580 feet in about a mile, most of that in less than a half-mile.

Kings Bluff, But Don't Fall For It
A quick dip in cool pool below the falls at Haw Creek Campground was just the trick before we decided to brave one more adventure for the day, a hike to Kings Bluff Falls east of Old Hwy 7 on Hwy 16. The well-worn trail was welcome and the bluff, falls and rock formations were fantastic.

More pics: http://www.facebook.com/#!/album.php?aid=172482&id=690593800

Check out our first attempt to record parts of our adventures on video...

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Fritz's Birthday Trip 2010

So, to officially begin our adventures, we have to go back to a weekend in late March, 2010, when Melissa treated me to a surprise trip to Boxley area of the Ozark Highlands in northeast central Arkansas.

Rocky Hills CabinBut first, I would like to acknowledge Tim Ernst, author of Arkansas Waterfalls Guidebook, among many other great books about camping and hiking in Arkansas. We're using that book as our guide, and we look forward to meeting Tim someday, maybe on the trail.

Oh, the luxury! Unlike our normal "roughing it", we stayed in a small cabin (Rocky Hills Cabin)...with a hot tub! My baby loves me.

Glory Hole Falls

Glory Hole Falls from the topGlory Hole Falls from the bottomOur first waterfall adventure was an easy, one-mile trek on a well-worn path to Glory Hole Falls, where a small stream falls directly through a round hole in an over hang. Pretty cool, but we arrived right as a photography club was swarming about.

Bear Skull Falls
Bear Skull FallsFor our next trick, we drove further south through Boxley to a remote trail head to the Ozark Highlands Trail, from whence we went on a hike of about 5 miles. But we mistook an ATV trail for the hiking trail and ended up slightly confused. Good thing we had our brand new handheld DeLorme PN-40 GPS to help us find our first big treat, Bear Skull Falls, a great falls about 25 feet high or so. However, we arrived from a direction that put us on a high overhang above the falls. Once at the bottom, we could see how little ground had actually been under our feet!

Slit Rock Falls
Further in, and off the main trail, we found Slit Rock Falls. Look at the picture and you'll see why. Apparently, the pool below the falls is a great swimming hole in the summer.

Caught in a Hail Storm
Beyond Split Rock Falls, we had hoped to bushwack our way off trail to one or the other of two remote falls, Discover Falls or Sunset Falls. We came within a quarter mile of Sunset falls, but the going was tough, we seriously worn out, it was starting to rain, and were simply not up to the task. Alas, they will have to wait for another day.

Good thing we turned around because less than 200 yards from our car, the rain turned heavy and small hail pummeled us as we ran through thick mud for safety. Reaching the car, we realized we had not retrieved a jacket Melissa left along the trail on the way in. So guess who ran back in the middle of a thunderstorm to find it?

All in a day's hike...